pattern

Lined Seamless Mittens (Knitting Pattern)


PLEASE NOTE: This was one of my very first designs, which I have been offering for free since I created it in 2010. I have recently designed a much better-fitting pattern called Just Plain Mittens. The new design comes in 5 sizes which can all be made in 3 weights of yarn. It includes patterns for sewn fleece liners for each size as well as knit fingering-weight liners.

For now, I will leave the pattern for Lined Seamless Mittens up on the Internet. However, I would strongly suggest you consider getting the Just Plain Mittens pattern for a much better knitting experience.


'Tis the season for creating things that keep heat in and cold out. Fires, blankets, conversation, tea, and... mittens!

I have been learning the art of making mittens for the last several years--kids go through an awful lot of them, either because they lose them or wear them out. Therefore, with three boys, I've had the opportunity for a lot of practice! ;-) Thankfully, mittens are something that are fairly fast to make.

This year, I decided to make the project even faster and warmer by using chunky yarn knit densely together. I then painstakingly worked out a design for a fleece liner with set-in thumbs... 'cause in Canada, a thin--or even a thick--layer of knitted yarn just ain't gonna cut it!

(I love that my spell-checker will not put a red flag on "ain't" and "gonna", but "snuck" will do it every time. What is wrong with the dictionary, people?!!)

So, back to the knitting... Another free pattern for you, internets. If you make it and like it, please let me know. If you make it and have problems with it... also, please let me know, so I can correct the pattern.

These mittens were made for child size medium. They work well on my boys' hands that are aged 5-6.

As noted above, I made these hand-specific, but frankly, they are more likely to end up on the wrong hand than the right one. To make them "uni-handed", just change the shell pattern so that the edge of the hand falls in the middle of the thumb increases, and make both the same. For the lining, you will likely need to draft your own pattern--lay the mitten on a piece of paper, outline in pencil, true lines, add 1/4" seam allowance all around, and stitch on stitching lines. Complete as described below.

P.S. I would love it if my kids would decide that wool does NOT drive them crazy, since acrylic drives ME crazy. But, that's just the way it is. So, these are made up in affordable Bernat Chunky.

Download Knitting Pattern

Download Lining Pattern

Lined Seamless Mittens

Difficulty: EASY

Materials:

One skein Bernat Chunky. (I took this from a 1-lb. ball, but used approximately 45 g. of yarn.)

Set of 4 dpns--5.0 mm

Small stitch holder

Yarn needle

Scraps of yarn made into loops for stitch markers

Polar fleece, scrap (or at least 10" long strip)

Needle and thread.

Gauge:

27 rows and 17 sts = 4" in stockinette stitch (Quite a tight gauge--make sure to keep your tension tight, or go down a needle size!) CHECK YOUR GAUGE!

Knit Shells:

Left Hand:

Cast on 30 sts. Distribute on 3 dpns. Place marker at beginning of round.

CUFF:

K1, P1 rib around until desired length of cuff is reached--I went for 3 inches, as this allows for mittens to reach far enough up the arm to not let snow in the sleeve.

HAND:

Rows 1-6:

Knit.

THUMB INCREASES:

Row 7:

K15. Place marker. K10. Place marker. Increase by knitting into back loop, then front loop. K2. Increase by knitting into front loop, then back loop. K1.

Row 8:

Knit.

Row 9:

K25. Slip marker. Increase by knitting into back loop, then front loop. K4. Increase by knitting into front loop, then back loop. Slip marker. K1.

Row 10:

Knit.

Row 11:

K25. Slip marker. Increase by knitting into back loop, then front loop. K6. Increase by knitting into front loop, then back loop. Slip marker. K1. (36 sts).

Rows 12-14:

Knit.

Row 15:

K25. Place next 10 stitches on stitch holder. Cast on 4 stitches. K1. (30 sts.) You should now only have two markers--one on each edge of the hand, 15 sts apart.

Knit until hand section measures 5 inches (from where you switched away from rib pattern.)

DECREASES:

Row 1:

*K1, ssk, k across to 3 sts. before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker.* Repeat between * *s for other side.

Row 2:

Knit.

Repeat decrease rows 1 and 2 four more times, until only 10 sts remain--five on front, five on back. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together. Weave in tail.

THUMB:

Place 10 stitches from holder onto 2 dpns. Join yarn at right side and knit across, then pick up 4 sts across top of thumb hole. I usually pick them up about two "bars" up for strength. There may be little holes at the two sides--it's okay. Just use a yarn tail or scrap to pull these closed when weaving in ends after. This also helps give extra strength to this area.

Knit around thumb (14sts) until thumb measures 2 inches from "crook" (top of where thumb joins hand). K2tog 7 times (7 sts), then 3 more times, K1 (4 sts). Cut yarn, leaving an 8-12" tail, weave in ends. Make sure to close up any gaps, as I mentioned!

Right Hand:

Work as for Left Hand, until you get to the Thumb Increases.

THUMB INCREASES:

Row 7:

K1. Place marker. Increase by knitting into back loop, then front loop. K2. Increase by knitting into front loop, then back loop. Place marker. K10. Place marker. K15.

Row 8:

Knit.

Row 9:

K1. Slip marker. Increase by knitting into back loop, then front loop. K4. Increase by knitting into front loop, then back loop. Slip marker. K25.

Row 10:

Knit.

Row 11:

K1. Slip marker. Increase by knitting into back loop, then front loop. K6. Increase by knitting into front loop, then back loop. Slip marker. K25. (36 sts).

Rows 12-14:

Knit.

Row 15:

K1. Place next 10 stitches on stitch holder. Cast on 4 stitches. K25. (30 sts.) You should now only have two markers--one on each edge of the hand, 15 sts apart.

Complete as for Left Hand.

Fleece Linings:

I used polar fleece--it is nice and warm, and dries quickly, just like the acrylic. Also, I hand-stitched these, partly because I didn't feel like digging out the sewing machine, but mostly because you have much better control with hand-stitching. You may want to reinforce your stitches with machine stitching where indicated, but I didn't bother.

This pattern is for set-in thumbs, and is hand-specific. Make sure you stitch it up the right way for the hand you are making! Remember, the seam allowances stay on the outside of the lining, as they will be sandwiched between the lining and the shell, so just make it up to look like the hand you want it to go on.

Download lining pattern.

Cut two of each piece on the fold. ONLY CUT THUMB GAP OUT OF ONE SIDE OF EACH HAND PIECE!! The other side should be straight.

Make sure you have the stretch of the fabric across the width of the hand and the thumb, or your mitten will be too tight

Fold thumb along fold line. Stitch, starting at bottom of thumb using running stitch, until you get around the top of the thumb. You may want to backstitch the top of the thumb, or do as I did, which was do running stitch back along the top, stitching in the gap from the first time--this is for added strength.

Fold the hand piece along fold line. Do a running stitch around raw edges, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance. When you get to the thumb gap, stitch around the gap through one layer only for added strength there, then keep going along edge through both layers.

SETTING THE THUMB:

This is where it gets a little tricky. Open out your thumb so that the bottom of the thumb seam is half-way along the bottom of the thumb gap, right sides together. Pin. Do the same for the top. Don't stress if this isn't exact--fleece is forgiving, and you can ease as you go. Use back-stitch, and start at bottom thumb seam and go around, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance. Finish by tacking in place several times and knot off.

To insert linings into shells, it is easiest to have a model with the appropriate-sized hand put on the lining, then the mitten over top. Fold back the cuff so you can work on the edge of the lining, which will attach to where the cuff meets the hand. Fold under 1/2" seam allowance of lining. Whip-stitch lining to shell.

If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions on this pattern, please feel free to e-mail me at talena[at]wintersdayin[dot]ca.

Here's the same pattern, but with some colour work on it, just for fun!

Twisted Rope Hat--Knitting Pattern

This spring, my friend B. from Arkansas surprised me by sending up some organic, grass-fed chickens and soy-free eggs from her farm (delish!!!) and a skein of wool for me via my mother. The only thing she wanted back was the wool--reformed into a hat shape for her daughter H., who is almost three, but one that would be "boyish" enough for her infant son N. in two years.

So, here it is. I am quite pleased with how the design turned out, actually. Also, I started this in the van on our way home from Edmonton in September, and it was already dark--so I did the cable band in the dark by counting, with the occasional quick switch-on of the map light to check my numbers. Remarkably, I did not have to "un-knit" any of it! Yay!!

Unfortunately, I did not double-check the size before I began (as I did not have e-mail access in the van!), so I ended up making it too small and had to make another one in Toddler size. This pattern has been tested in the 3-6 month and Toddler size--the other two sizes I did by the numbers. Please let me know if there are any errors.

The hat is constructed by first making a cabled band that is grafted together at the ends. Then stitches are picked up for the crown and ear flaps. Twisted yarn ties and topper are the perfect finishing touch!

Click on the pattern name to be taken to the page where you can download a copy of the pattern in a PDF file. Please give design credit including this website URL (www.talenawinters.com) and include the copyright and e-mail address for any re-use. Thanks.

Edit, June 17, 2012:

This is one of my first designs, which I have been giving away on my blog for nearly two years now. It has proven to be extremely popular, but every so often, I have noticed on Ravelry that people have had problems with it. This is the revised version I did after re-testing it. Please note the different (more accurate) yarn weight. There are also two styles of earflaps and two extra sizes available in the revised version. The back is slightly longer than the front to cover the neck. Thank you for choosing my design.

Twisted Rope Hat

By Talena Winters. ©2010. Revised ©2012.

Difficulty:

Intermediate

Sizes:

Fits 3-6 mo. (up to head circ.: 15 in./ 37.5cm) 6-12 mos. (16 in./ 40 cm) 12-24 mos. (17 in./ 42.5 cm), 2-4 yrs. (19 in./ 47.5 cm), Child/Ladies’ Small (21 in./ 52.5 cm), Ladies’ Large (23.5 in./ 59 cm)

Materials:

2 (2, 2, 2*, 3, 3) 76 oz/50g skeins heavy aran-weight wool (approx. 78 [89, 101, 128, 148, 180] yds/72 [82, 93, 118, 136, 166] m) set of five 4 mm. double-pointed needles (dpns), cable needle (cn), yarn needle, scrap of yarn tied in loop for marking

Gauge:

20 sts, 28 rows = 4”/10cm in stockinette stitch. It is extremely important that you check your gauge with this pattern! Most of the problems I have seen people have with this pattern are because they knit much looser than I do, and didn’t check their gauge. You may need to go down a needle size or two.

*See Notes at end of pattern.

Method:

Cable Band:

Start using only two of the dpns as straight needles. Cast on 16 stitches. Use a soft cast-on, as you will be grafting it together with the other end.

*Row 1: K2, p3, k6, p3, k2, turn.

Row 2:P2, k3, p6, k3, p2, turn.

Repeat from * once more.

Row 5: K2, p3, slip 3 sts. to cn and hold in front, k3, k3 stitches from cn, p3, k2, turn.

Row 6: As for Row 2.

*Row 7: K2, p3, k6, p3, k2, turn.

Row 8 :P2, k3, p6, k3, p2, turn.

Repeat from * once more.

Repeat Rows one to ten 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) more times, so you have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) "twists" in your cable. Band should measure approximately 13.7 inches/34 cm (15 inches/38 cm, 16.4 inches/41 cm, 17.75 inches/44.5 cm, 19.1 inches/48 cm, 20.5 inches/51 cm) from start. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft ends together--make sure to alter the stitch for all the changes in knit and purl as you graft! Weave in ends.

Crown:

Pick up 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) stitches along one edge of band and distribute between 4 dpns. (I found that I had to pick up approx. 7 stitches for every 10 rows [one cable repeat] of hatband, give or take a few.) Place yarn marker at beginning of round. Knit in the round until crown measures approximately 3.5 (4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6) inches/8.8 (10, 11.2, 12.5, 13.7, 15) cm from the bottom of cable band. (See Notes at end of pattern for finished crown height measurements in order to make alterations as necessary.) Don’t stretch the band while you measure, but do unfurl the bottom edge slightly to how it will lay once you pick up the bottom stitches.

Crown decreases:

Rnd 1: *K6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11), k2tog* around.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Rnd 3: *K one less than previous decrease row, k2tog* around.

Rnd 4: Knit.

Repeat Rounds 3 & 4 until only 32 (32, 40, 48, 56, 64) sts remain.

Decrease 8 times every round until 8 stitches remain. Break yarn, leaving a 12" tail, and use a yarn needle to thread through remaining stitches and draw up tight. Weave in end well.

Ear/Cheek flaps:

Fold hat in half with back “seam” of hatband on one fold. With brim up as though to knit, count to the right of the opposite fold 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts (1/8 of hat circumference). This is where you will begin picking up stitches.

Pick up 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) stitches around cable band and distribute evenly on 4 dpns—16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) sts each needle). Make sure that the back "seam" of hatband is in the centre of one of the needles.

Knit in the round for 4 rounds.

Cast off the first needle—16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) sts on needle opposite the "back". Knit back-and-forth rows in Stockinette Stich for 4 more rows, ending with a purl row. K 16 (18, 20 22, 24, 26), cast off the same, then knit the same. You should now have two needles holding stitches on opposite sides of the hat, with 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) sts on each of those needles.

Work with 2nd set of sts (leave 1st set on dpn for now).

Original Long version (solid brown hat pictured):

These flaps reach to the chin.

*Row 1: Sl 1 knit-wise, p across.

Row 2. Sl 1 knit-wise, k across.*

Work between *-*s 3 (2, 1, 0, 0, 0) more times.

*Row 9: Sl 1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Row 10: Sl 1, purl across.

Repeat from * until 8 (10, 10, 12, 12, 14) sts. remain. Bind off. Weave in end.

Revised Short Version (Beige and Brown hat pictured):

During revisions, I decided that not having the earflaps meet under the chin might be preferable to some. I leave the choice of which hat to make up to you.

Row 1: Purl across.

*Row 2: Sl 1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Row 3: Sl 1, purl across.

Repeat from * until 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts remain.

*Row 1a: Sl 1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Row 2a: Sl 1, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, ssp, p1.

Repeat from * until 6 sts remain.

Last row: as for Row 1a, but bind off as you knit. Weave in end.

Join yarn at beginning of purl row on other ear flap. Complete as for first ear flap.

Ties and Tassels:

Tassel:

Cut 3 lengths of yarn approx. 8-10 inches long and use a yarn needle to thread across "button" on top of hat. Adjust so that there are two equal lengths. Twist each set of 3 to the right while twisting the two sets around each other to the left. Make an overhand knot about 1 inch from the end by wrapping the end around itself, inserting through from the hat-end and pulling tight.

Ties:

For ties, cut 3 lengths of yarn approx.16-20 inches long and use a yarn needle to anchor behind two stitches at bottom centre of hat flap. Use same procedure to twist and tie as for tassel. Repeat for other tie. Check that knots are the same distance from end on each.

Please e-mail errors in this pattern to talena@wintersdayin.ca.

Notes:

• For the 2-4 yr size, you may have to unravel your gauge swatch to make this hat. If you don’t want to do this, buy another ball.

• Approx. crown heights planned for (adjust to your recipient’s measurements): 3-6 mos: 5.5”/13.75 cm, 6-12 mos. 5.75”/14.5 cm, 12-24 mos: 6”/15 cm, 2-4 yrs: 7”/17.5 cm, Child/Ladies’ Small: 7.5”/19 cm, Ladies’ Large: 8.5”/21.25 cm.

Glossary:

sl: slip, move st from one needle to the other without working

ssk: slip two stitches as if to knit, insert left needle tip through both sts on right needle from right, k2tog.

ssp: slip two stitches as if to knit, insert left needle tip through both sts on right needle from left, p2tog.

Twisted Rope Hat 1
DSC05230 cropped web.jpg
Twisted Rope Hat
Twisted Rope Hat

Graceful Slippers (Knitting Pattern)

Edit on February 26, 2019: I have revised this pattern and included a worsted version, which is now available in my shop. The purchased version also includes a full glossary, notes, and links to relevant tutorials. Available here: www.talenawinters.com/graceful-slippers.

I just recently finished making these for my friend Robin, as a "pamper the new mommy*" present. I have had a couple of requests for the pattern, so here it is.

I have made these slippers several times--they are warm and cozy, and unlike many slipper patterns, I find them very flattering to the feet. Also, the whole project can be completed in 2-4 hours. Despite the fact that for this pair, all I had kicking around was a somewhat masculine green, I "dolled it up" by using a strip of sunflower fabric that I trimmed with pinking shears for my ribbon.

Yarn

Shetland Chunky (75% Acrylic/25% Wool, 135 m/148 yds), or any yarn with a similar gauge. (I recommend something with some wool in it for durability.) These slippers were in the Sage Green colourway. I used less than half of a 100g (3 1/2 oz.) ball for these, so they are great stash-busters!

Other supplies

6 mm (size 10) straight needles, yarn needle, approx. 18"-20" ribbon or decorated cotton fabric (trimmed with pinking shears), 2 stitch markers (small pieces of yarn tied in a loop will do)

Gauge

16 sts & 24 rows=4"/10 cm. over stockinette stitch using 6 mm (size 10) needles. While the gauge on this pattern is somewhat forgiving, do take time to check it.

Notes

There are two sizes in this pattern, Medium (ladies' size 6-8) and Large (ladies' size 9-10). After making this pattern once, you will find it very easy to alter to any size you need by adjusting the number of cast-on stitches. Heels should have about 2" of stitches remaining at the shortest section, and toes about 1 1/2".

Stitch Glossary:

W&TK (Wrap & Turn - Knit side)

Move yarn to front (right side) of the work, slip one stitch from left needle to right needle (purl-wise), move yarn to back (wrong side) of work, slip stitch from right needle back to left needle, turn work.

W&TP (Wrap & Turn - Purl side)

Move yarn to back (right side) of work, slip one stitch from left needle to right needle (purl-wise), move yarn to front (wrong side) of work, slip stitch from right needle to left needle, turn work.

Both slippers are created using the same pattern.

Helpful Hint:

While it is not absolutely necessary to use markers to keep track of where you are, you will have to do a lot less "un-knitting" if you do. Place markers on the "inside" of the stitch you just wrapped on the decreases, and on the "outside" of the stitch you just wrapped on the increases.

Cast-On at Cuff:

Cast on 30 (32) sts.

Rw 1 (RS): Knit.

Rw 2: K1, purl to last stitch, K1, turn.

Rw 3: K until second-last st, W&TK.

Rw 4: P until second-last st, W&TP.

Rw 5: K to one stitch before previous wrap-and-turn, W&TK. (You will be knitting an odd number every time, one st less than last purl row.)

Rw 6: P to one stitch before previous wrap-and-turn, W&TP. (You will be purling an even number every time, one st less than last knit row.)

Repeat rows 5 & 6 until you purl only 8 stitches across between wrap-and-turns.

Turn Heel:

Next Rw (RS): K8, W&TK. (You will be wrapping the same stitch you already wrapped during the decreases.)

Next Rw (WS): P8, W&TP. (You will be wrapping the same stitch you already wrapped during the decreases.)

Foot increases:

Rw 1: Knit all knit stitches, plus the double-wrapped stitch, W&TK. (You will be knitting an odd number of stitches, and it will always be one more st than your last purl row).

Rw 2: Purl all purl stitches, plus the double-wrapped stitch, W&TP. (You will be purling an even number of sts, one more than the last knit row.)

Repeat rows 1 & 2 until you have wrapped the second-last st on your wrong-side row.

Middle of the foot:

Rw 1: Knit to end.

Rw 2: K1, purl to last stitch, k1.

Repeat rows 1 & 2 one time.

Toe decreases:

Rw 1: K until second-last st, W&TK.

Rw 2: P until second-last st, W&TP.

Rw 3: K to one stitch before previous wrap-and-turn, W&TK. (You will be knitting an odd number every time, one st less than last purl row.)

Rw 4: P to one stitch before previous wrap-and-turn, W&TP. (You will be purling an even number every time, one st less than last knit row.)

Repeat rows 3 & 4 until you purl only 6 stitches across between wrap-and-turns.

Turn Toe:

Next Rw (RS): K6, W&TK. (You will be wrapping the same stitch you already wrapped during the decreases.)

Next Rw (WS): P6, W&TP. (You will be wrapping the same stitch you already wrapped during the decreases.)

Toe increases:

Rw 1: Knit all knit stitches, plus the double-wrapped stitch, W&TK. (You will be knitting an odd number of stitches, and it will always be one more st than your last purl row).

Rw 2: Purl all purl stitches, plus the double-wrapped stitch, W&TP. (You will be purling an even number of sts, one more than the last knit row.)

Repeat rows 1 & 2 until you have wrapped the second-last st on your wrong-side row.

Next Rw (RS): Knit to end.

Next Rw (WS): K1, p to last st, k1.

Eyelet Row (RS):
SMALL: *K1, yo, k2tog*, repeat to end of row.
LARGE: K1, *k1, yo, k2tog*, repeat to last st, k1.

Next Row (WS): K1, purl to last stitch, k1.

Next Row (RS): Cast off. Weave in ends. Weave ribbon through eyelets, entering from the RS of slipper (should also finish coming out on the RS of slipper). Pull tight and tie in a knot or bow. Ribbons may need to have the ends finished with FrayStop or a rolled, stitched hem.

Please e-mail me if you find any errors in this pattern.

Copyright 2010 Talena Winters. Public use is allowed, but please give credit.

*I'm not sure Robin can be called a "new mommy", since she just had her fifth baby. But she is mommy to a new baby, and I figure that's call for some pampering!

Edit: New photos of another set I made out of Peruvian Highland Wool: